Chemical peels, laser resurfacing and microneedling all work wonders on pigmentation, however they are not suitable for everyone. Sometimes, you don't want any downtime or perhaps you are looking for a more purse friendly alternative to clinic treatments. Look no further - these are the MUST HAVE ingredients to treat your hyperpigmentation effectively at home.
What is hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition that is characterised by dark patches or spots on the skin. It is formed when there is an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes. Melanin is produced by special skin cells called melanocytes, which are located in the lower part of the epidermis, the outer layer of the skin.
There are several factors that can trigger an increase in melanin production, leading to hyperpigmentation. These factors include exposure to the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays, hormonal changes, inflammation, and injury to the skin. For example, UV rays from the sun can cause melanocytes to produce more melanin in order to protect the skin from further damage.
Hormonal changes, such as those that occur during pregnancy or menopause, can also trigger an increase in melanin production. Inflammation and injury to the skin, such as from acne or eczema, can also lead to hyperpigmentation.
Hyperpigmentation can take many different forms, including age spots, sun spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Each type of hyperpigmentation has its own unique causes and characteristics, but all are formed by an overproduction of melanin in the skin.
How can you treat hyperpigmentation at home?
While hyperpigmentation is not harmful, it can be a source of insecurity for many people. Fortunately, there are several skincare treatments that can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and improve the appearance of the skin.
This blog post will highlight the superhero ingredients designed to treat existing pigmentation and prevent it from becoming worse.
Topical Creams and Serums
Topical creams and serums are one of the most common treatments for hyperpigmentation. They work by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. Some of the most popular ingredients in hyperpigmentation creams and serums include hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, and niacinamide. We'll look into these in a little more detail below:
Hydroquinone - a powerful skin lightening agent that works by inhibiting the production of melanin. In the UK, hydroquinone is a prescription-only medication and cannot be purchased over the counter. It is only available with a prescription from a qualified healthcare professional, such as a dermatologist or a general practitioner. This is because hydroquinone is a potent skin-lightening agent that can cause adverse effects, including skin irritation, redness, and burning, if used improperly. In addition, long-term use of hydroquinone has been associated with an increased risk of developing skin cancer, although this risk is still being studied and is not yet fully understood. Our Nurse Prescriber can offer prescription skin care using Obagi for stubborn pigmentation that you can use at home on a 12 week programme.
Kojic acid - another popular ingredient in hyperpigmentation creams and serums. It is derived from fungi and works by inhibiting the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the production of melanin. This is a key ingredient in AlumierMD's 'Intellibright Complex'.
Vitamin C - an antioxidant that has been shown to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin and by promoting collagen production, which can help to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. Not all Vitamin C is made equal. Unfortunately it can become inactive very quickly in the presence of air and light and so choosing a stabilised form of Vitamin C is super important! Most skin experts agree this is for the AM regime, although it can be used in the evening too.
Niacinamide - a form of vitamin B3 that has been shown to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the transfer of melanin from the melanocytes to the surrounding skin cells. This is a key ingredient in ZO Brightalive, a non-retinol skin brightener.
When using topical creams and serums for hyperpigmentation, it is important to follow the instructions carefully and to be patient. It can take several weeks or even months (6-12 months for stubborn pigmentation) to see results, and some people may experience skin irritation or other side effects during their treatment. Nurse Coral is always happy to guide you when using these ingredients as part of your skin regime.
Can acids be used to help reduce pigmentation?
Acids are another popular treatment for hyperpigmentation. They work by exfoliating the skin and promoting cell turnover, which can help to fade dark spots and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. Some of the most popular acids for hyperpigmentation include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, work by exfoliating the surface of the skin and promoting cell turnover. They can help to fade dark spots and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin.
BHAs, such as salicylic acid, work by exfoliating the inside of the pores and promoting cell turnover. They are particularly effective for treating hyperpigmentation caused by acne.
When using acids for hyperpigmentation, it is important to start with a low concentration and to gradually increase the concentration as tolerated. It is also important to use sunscreen daily, as acids can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. As much as I find a lot of high street skin care ineffective, I do personally love The Ordinary's Lactic Acid 10% as an entry point to using acids. It is gentle and suitable for most skin types, but again - do not expect overnight results!
What about retinol?
Retinol is a well-known and effective ingredient in treating hyperpigmentation. It is a form of vitamin A that works by increasing cell turnover and stimulating collagen production in the skin. By promoting the shedding of dead skin cells, retinol can help to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improve skin texture and tone.
Retinol is particularly effective in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is a common type of hyperpigmentation that occurs after an injury or inflammation to the skin, such as from acne or eczema and often experienced by those with darker skin tones. By promoting cell turnover, retinol can help to fade the dark spots left behind by these conditions and prevent new ones from forming.
However, retinol can also cause skin irritation, redness, and flaking, especially when first starting use or if used in high concentrations. It is important to start slowly and gradually increase the frequency of use to allow your skin to adjust. It is also important to use a sunscreen during the day, as retinol can increase sun sensitivity and make the skin more prone to sunburn.
Our entry level recommendations for retinol include brands Alumier and Medik8. These formulations are gentle and non-irritating. We have chosen to partner with these brands due to their exceptional quality and unbeatable results.
Which brings us onto our last point - wear sunscreen!
Sun protection is one of the most important steps in managing hyperpigmentation. Exposure to the sun can worsen existing hyperpigmentation and can also cause new dark spots to form. It is important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 every day, even on cloudy days. Pop into clinic to purchase a personal favourite of mine, Heliocare, that ticks all the boxes when it comes to protecting your skin.
"Hi! I'm Nurse Coral, an experienced aesthetic nurse who is passionate about providing natural enhancements to help people feel confident and beautiful. My clinics are based in the City of London, Essex & Kent.
You can book in for a consultation with me here, or simply reach out with any queries by emailing info@coralaesthetics.co.uk and I'll get back to you!"
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